The Chikankari Paradise: Top Indian Brands That Feature Chikankari Kurtas #VocalForLocal

The absolute pride of Indian fabrics, chikankari has been long loved by fabric owners since decades. The origin of chikankari lies within the beautiful city of Lucknow where it is also addresses as the floral embroidery pattern.

The word Chikan has been derived from the Persian word ‘chikin’ which translates to embroidered material. Most of the cotton embroidered pieces that are exported within the country today are all creations of hand-woven chikankari fabric designed in Lucknow.

A Brief History of Chikankari

The origin of Chikankari is said to be dated back to as far as the rule of King Harsha in 590-670 CE. He is known to have had a great likeliness for plain white muslin cloth, with no embellishments or designs. Much later, nearing the 3^rd century BC, Indian emperors at Chandragupta Maurya’s court were observed to be wearing embroidered flowery muslin cloth, with a specific type of print which is today popularly known as the Chikankari print.

The concept of floral embroidery had full vanished for many years until it was later revived in the early 16^th century in Mughal courts. Further down the line, when the British rule came into place, the chikankari design grew tenfold. Almost all fabrics that were being exported at the time like- table runners, coffee mats, coasters and muslin dresses, were all covered in intricate chikankari work and were labelled to be patent Indian hand-woven designs.

The artistic skills and beautiful patterns were also said to have strongly influenced Persian and Mughal architecture. Many eminent monuments such as the walls of the Imambara mosque in Lucknow and the jhaalis at the Taj Mahal were inspired by some gorgeous chikankari designs.

Chikankari Embroidery Technique

We have all been witness to how lovely chikankari kurtas can look and but have you ever wondered how these intricate patterns are made? It takes skilful needlework and practice to create even one floral embroidery. The needlework process for chikan takes 32 different stitches. Five of the most basic stitches that are used to create most of our chikankari garments are:

• Bakhiya- The Double Backstitch
• Tepchi- The Back Running stitch
• Zanzeera- The Chain stitch
• Hool- The Eyelet
• Rahket- The Stem stitch

Apart from these, there are two basic techniques that are used to create simple chikan designs which are using a single thread on a flat surface. While the other is by making an engraved effect on the fabric using nearly 12 threads.

The prints and designs that are created every year using chikankari embroidery techniques represents our countries fine craftsmanship and stands as a true testament of success for our skilful hand-woven artisans.

Indian Brands That Are Known For Chikankari #VocalForLocal

While chikankaari kurtas and palazzo sets have made a major comeback this fashion season, we can see how more and more brands, especially Indian ethnic brands are surging to bring this old beauty back.

With chikankari contributing towards a huge part of our Indian culture as well as being created by our very own Indian artisans, it is imperative for us to understand the importance of shopping local and selecting Indian brands that have their entire base of operations within the country and choose to manage their production and supply solely through local channels.

In order to encourage consumers to shop locally, we have curated some of the best brands in India that sell chikankari pieces and offer absolutely unique and gorgeous designs:

House of Chikankari by Kanika Kapoor

This South Mumbai retail store entails a classic blend of modern yet traditional where you can find some of the most beautiful ethnic wear along with customized outfits that blend modern and Indian wear together. It has been founded by singer and designer, Kanika Kapoor and features some of her best work as a designer.

With the brand, she aims to not only target those customers who are looking for traditional Indian chikankari sets but also those who are experimental with their style and are looking for some exquisitely unique modern outfits like formal shirts, parallel trousers, crop tops and skirts, all featuring a hint of chikankari.

Where to find them: https://www.instagram.com/kanikakapoor_houseofchikankari/?hl=en

Noorkari

This online store features some exclusive hand embroidered chikankari kurtas and kurta sets, sarees and chikankari fabrics. Based in Lucknow, Noorkari offers worldwide shipping and ensure to provide the most authentic traditional and contemporary chikankari outfits.

It is perfect for those who are looking for a wide variety of options in terms of style, fabric, colours and patterns. It also features a premium and luxury sections where customers can find high-end fabrics, kurta sets and designer dupattas to go with their purchase. It is also one of the few brands that caters to chikankari kurtas for men and has some great options for menswear.

Where to find them: https://noorkari.com/

Aza Fashions

Being a well-recognized label in the retail sector, Aza Fashion also features a curated section exclusively for chikankari which has brands and designers that offer well-designed chikankari outfits.

This section of the website features chikankari outfits by top designers like Tarun Tahiliani, House of Kotwara, Manish Malhotra, Anjul Bhandari and many more. It offers a wide selection of high-end designers and kurta sets that are enticing and allow for customers to get the best chikankari designer wear.

Where to find them: https://www.azafashions.com/online/chikankari+designer+wear

Anjul Bhandari

Anjul Bhandari’s couture designs are known for its exquisite chikankari and kamdani embroidery that are hand-woven by local Indian artisans. The brand offers a beautiful range of embroidered garments, with pastel hues being some of their most popular designs.

The retail store is based in Delhi and offers premium quality services in terms of designs, fabrics, craftsmanship and unique patterns. The designers create beautiful pieces that not just pertain to kurtas and anarkalis but also design beautiful chikankari lehengas, sarees, jackets, shirts and much more.

Where to find them: https://anjulbhandaricouture.com/

House of Kotwara

The brand was founded by luxury designers Meera and Muzaffar Ali in the 90’s and is popularly known for its dainty feminine designs and pastel colour scheme. After creating multiple collections for Anarkali and Sarees, the couture house created their very first chikankari collection which went on to become one for the most popular collection within the embroidery world.

Today, the brand houses multiple Bollywood celebrities and has also featured in a number of top fashion shoes for its beautiful chikankari collection of anarkalis, gowns, lehengas, kurta sets, sarees and contemporary wear.

Where to find them: https://www.instagram.com/houseofkotwara/?hl=en